"A Black Issue" in Vogue Italia
There is a really interesting piece in today's Times about the upcoming Vogue Italia, which features a 100-page portfolio by Steven Meisel starring only black models—including Iman, Naomi Campbell, Jourdan Dunn, Liya Kebede, Alek Wek, Pat Cleveland, Karen Alexander, and the ever-ubiquitous Tyra:
Mr. Meisel has his own theories about why black models, save for the token few, have disappeared from runways. “Perhaps the designers, perhaps the magazine editors,” he said. “They are the powerful people. And the advertisers. I have asked my advertising clients so many times, ‘Can we use a black girl?’ They say no.” The concern is that consumers will resist the product, he said. “It all comes down to money.”
The small wing of the fashion world we've been exposed to reminded us of nothing as much as a seventh-grade gym class, with everyone nervously toeing some imaginary line and desperately doing anything possible to look cool—when of course the coolest thing to do would be to ignore that line; it's the lamest form of self-censorship ("I can't wear overalls because the mean girls won't like it" \ "We can't use black models because the advertisers won't like it.") Depressing that we're not light-years beyond this but good for Vogue Italia—we're totally buying this issue, even if it costs a significant portion of our monthly rent.

























When we first saw the America Ferrera W cover, we must admit, we were like: "Do we love her any less for doing that thing where the supposedly not-vampy girl, our pet heroine, is actually revealed to be super-vamp with excellent bone structure etc.?" 



Is it really a "tribute" if you're naked the whole time? Oh! And dead?
From the new British Vogue. We're usually so into Nick Knight's stuff, but we really are just so over this Steve Madden-cam tiny bodies \\ big shoes thing. Seriously. If we were anorexic, we'd pin it to our fridge. And the irony is that this is in the same issue as "Vogue weighs in" on "the skinny debate"—i.e., all the models dying from eating disorders. And that piece works extremely hard to be having and eating the cake simultaneously: Most people have the models' best interests at heart, designers love models, models love modeling, Lily Cole's a size 8, whatever. We love British Vogue but this to us is a total disconnect.